Buying Guide
Best Bearings for Longboards: What Actually Matters When You Buy
For most cruising and commuting riders, longboard bearings are a $15–$40 decision that matters less than wheel size and deck setup. The best bearings for longboards are the ones that match how you ride—not the ones with the highest ABEC number on the box. Here is how to choose without overpaying for specs that do not change how your board feels on your actual commute.
What actually determines how your longboard bearings feel under your feet
Most bearing marketing focuses on three things: ABEC rating, material, and brand name. Two of those matter less than you think, and the one that matters most—lubrication—is almost never the headline.
Here is the short version. If you want the full technical breakdown, our longboard bearings guide covers the technical side in more depth. For now, the buying-relevant facts:
- ABEC ratings measure manufacturing precision for industrial machinery, not skating performance. According to the Annular Bearing Engineers’ Committee standards, ABEC-7 and ABEC-9 differ by tolerances measured in millionths of an inch. A longboard wheel at commuting speeds does not approach the RPM where that difference becomes measurable. For campus and city riding, ABEC-5 or equivalent is more than enough.
- Material (steel vs. ceramic) changes heat resistance and corrosion behavior, not top speed for a rider doing 1–3 miles on dry pavement. Ceramic bearings cost 2–4x more than steel. The upgrade makes sense for specific use cases, which we will get to.
- Lubrication type and maintenance frequency affect roll feel more than anything else on the spec sheet. Most stock bearings on a quality complete board are decent. What makes them feel sluggish after a few months is usually dried-out lubricant or road debris, not a flaw in the bearing itself.
In practical riding terms: your bearing choice will not transform your commute. Cleaning your current set might.
Steel vs. ceramic longboard bearings: when the upgrade is worth it
The ceramic question comes up in almost every bearing conversation, so let me answer it directly. Standard steel bearings are the default on nearly every quality complete board. For commuting, cruising, and campus riding on dry pavement, they work fine.
Ceramic bearings are not about speed. They are about durability under specific conditions.
| Factor | Steel Bearings | Ceramic Bearings |
|---|---|---|
| Price range | $8–$25 | $30–$80 |
| Best for | Campus, short commute, casual cruising | Daily wet riding, distance pushing, coast-adjacent climates |
| Corrosion resistance | Standard; needs regular cleaning | Higher; tolerates moisture and skipped maintenance better |
| Heat resistance | Adequate at commuting speeds | Better under sustained high-speed use |
| Roll feel difference for 1–3 mile daily riders | Baseline | In our experience, hard to feel on dry pavement |
If you ride in rain, near the coast, or you know you are not going to clean your bearings every few weeks, ceramic has a practical argument. The corrosion resistance alone can save you from replacing bearings twice as often.
But if you are a campus rider or a fair-weather commuter, most riders we have heard from say the performance difference does not justify the price. Cleaning and relubing a $12 steel set will get you 80% of the way there.
Honestly, if you are buying longboard bearings for the first time, start with steel. You can always upgrade later once you know what your riding actually demands.
How to read ABEC ratings without overpaying
ABEC is probably the most overused spec in skate bearing marketing. Here is what it actually measures, and where it stops mattering for your ride.
ABEC stands for Annular Bearing Engineers’ Committee. The scale runs ABEC-1, 3, 5, 7, and 9. Each step up means tighter dimensional tolerances—how precisely the inner and outer rings of the bearing are manufactured. These tolerances matter for high-RPM industrial equipment like CNC machines and dental drills.
A longboard wheel spinning at cruising speed is nowhere near that RPM range. According to ABEC standards, the difference between an ABEC-5 and ABEC-9 bearing at 1,000 RPM is measurable with lab equipment. Your feet are not lab equipment.
This is why brands like Bones Bearings and Bronson developed their own rating systems. They tested what skaters actually feel—impact resistance, lubricant retention, noise—and built standards around that instead of tolerances designed for factory machinery.
What this means for you: If a bearing box says ABEC-5 or higher, the precision spec is not your limiting factor. Focus on seal type (rubber seals keep lubricant in and debris out better than metal shields), lubrication type (speed cream or oil for cruising, grease for longevity), and whether the bearings are serviceable. That is what determines how your board feels after 500 miles.
If you want a deeper dive into ABEC ratings and what each component actually does, our longboard bearings guide breaks down ABEC ratings in more detail.
Cleaning and maintenance: the bearing upgrade most riders skip
Here is something I learned early on that changed how I think about bearing recommendations entirely. Most bearings that feel slow or rough are not broken—they are dirty or dry.
I used to get messages from riders saying their board felt sluggish after two months. My first instinct was to recommend a bearing upgrade. Then I started asking a different question: when did you last clean them?
The answer was almost always “never.”
There are three truths about bearing maintenance that most guides skip, and they matter more than any spec on a bearing box:
- Most bearings ship with excess lubricant, not a deficit. Buying a new board and immediately adding more oil can actually make bearings slower by creating drag. Ride them first. Clean and relube after the first 30–60 days if you want to optimize.
- What you use to lubricate matters more than how often you do it. WD-40 is a cleaner and a solvent, not a bearing lubricant. It will strip existing lubricant and leave bearings dry. Use a dedicated bearing lubricant (speed cream, bones speed cream, or even light sewing machine oil). Grease lasts longer but rolls slower; oil rolls faster but needs more frequent application.
- There is no universal replacement schedule. If you hear grinding, feel grit, or your wheels stop spinning freely after cleaning, the bearings are done. Most commuters get 6–18 months from a steel set with occasional cleaning. Some get less if they ride through rain or sand regularly.
If you are riding daily on rough pavement or through wet conditions, cleaning every 2–3 months keeps stock bearings performing close to new. Our maintenance guide covers the full cleaning process step by step if you have never done it before.
A budget steel replacement set runs $8–$15. That is less than a single lunch out. Spend more only if you have a specific use case—daily wet riding, long-distance pushing, or you simply do not want to think about cleaning for a while.
Picking the right bearings for how you actually ride
The question is not “which bearings are best.” The question is “which bearings are best for the riding I actually do.” Here is how I would break it down:
Campus / short commute (under 2 miles)
Standard steel bearings from any reputable brand. Sealed rubber shields, light oil lubrication. If your stock set rolls clean, do not upgrade—clean them instead. The distance is too short for material or ABEC differences to show up.
Daily commuter (2–5 miles, mixed surfaces)
Sealed bearings with good lubrication retention matter more here. If your stock set feels sluggish after a thorough cleaning, a mid-range steel upgrade ($15–$25) is worth it. Look for double rubber seals to keep road grit out.
Wet-climate or neglect-prone rider
This is where ceramic or stainless steel bearings earn their price. If you ride in Portland rain or coastal humidity and you know you will not clean them every few weeks, the corrosion resistance saves you money over time. Budget $30–$60 for a set that handles moisture.
Distance pusher / long rides (5+ miles)
High-quality steel or ceramic bearings with easy maintenance access. At this distance, speed rings and spacers start to matter—they keep the bearing aligned and reduce friction. Lubrication choice (light oil over grease) gives you a more efficient roll over long pushes.
Beginner just learning
Ride what came on your complete. Seriously. The bearings in a quality complete board are good enough for your first 6–12 months. If they feel rough, clean them before you buy anything new. Your budget is better spent on wheels or a helmet.
You can browse longboard bearings filtered by material and price once you know which category you fall into.
Common questions, answered straight
Do expensive longboard bearings actually make you faster?
Not in a way most commuting and cruising riders will notice. Bearing quality affects roll smoothness and how long a set lasts between cleanings. Raw speed depends more on rider effort, wheel size, wheel hardness, and pavement condition. A $15 steel set on clean, smooth pavement will outroll a $60 ceramic set on cracked asphalt.
How often should I replace my longboard bearings?
There is no fixed timeline. Replace them when cleaning and relubing no longer restores a smooth, free spin. Most commuters get 6–18 months from a steel set with occasional maintenance. If you ride through rain, sand, or never clean them, expect to replace sooner.
Are ceramic longboard bearings worth the extra cost?
For most casual and commuter riders on dry pavement, no. Ceramic bearings resist corrosion and heat better than steel, which matters for daily wet-climate riders, distance pushers, or people who skip frequent maintenance. If you ride a few miles a day in dry conditions and clean your bearings occasionally, steel does the job.
What ABEC rating should I get for cruising and commuting?
ABEC-5 or equivalent is enough. The difference between ABEC-5 and ABEC-7 is not noticeable at commuting speeds. Prioritize sealed design (rubber shields over metal shields) and proper lubrication over the ABEC number on the box.
Ready to replace your bearings?
If your current bearings feel sluggish, start with a clean and relube before buying anything new. If they are done—if cleaning does not bring back the roll—then it is time for a replacement set that matches how you ride. Browse our longboard bearings to find the right set for your commute →