Buying Guide

How to Choose the Best Trucks for Your Longboard

The best trucks for a longboard are not the most expensive or the most popular. They are the ones that match how you lean, how fast you ride, and how much control you want at a given speed. This guide translates truck angle, bushing durometer, and RKP vs TKP geometry into what they actually mean for your turns and your stability on pavement.

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How to Choose Longboard Trucks: Start with the Basics

Most buyers look at a longboard and think about the deck, the wheels, and maybe the graphic. Trucks are the last thing they consider. That is backwards. Trucks control how your board turns, how stable it feels at speed, and how much effort it takes to carve. If you get trucks wrong, a board with a great deck and good wheels will still feel off.

There are three variables that matter when choosing good longboard trucks: truck angle, bushing setup, and truck geometry (RKP vs TKP). Everything else — color, brand logo, finish — is decoration.

Truck angle controls your turning radius. A 50-degree baseplate angle gives you a sharper, more responsive turn at low speeds. A 40-degree angle spreads that same lean over a wider arc, which feels more stable when you pick up speed. What this means for you: if you are cruising campus at 8–10 mph, 50-degree trucks feel lively and fun. If you are bombing a hill or commuting long stretches at 15+ mph, 40–44-degree trucks keep you from feeling like the board is wobbling underneath you.

Bushings are the urethane cylinders inside your trucks that control how much the trucks compress when you lean. Softer bushings (around 85A) compress easily, giving you quick turns with less effort. Harder bushings (90A+) resist lean, which adds stability but makes the board feel less responsive to small weight shifts. Bushing shape matters too — barrel bushings sit more securely in the truck seat and resist wobble; cone bushings compress more freely and allow deeper lean. We will get into this in detail below.

RKP vs TKP is the geometry question. Reverse Kingpin (RKP) trucks are the standard for almost every longboard and cruiser. They turn in a way that feels fluid and predictable. Traditional Kingpin (TKP) trucks are what you see on standard street skateboards — they turn quicker and sit lower, but they are less stable once you exceed cruising speed. For longboard-specific riding, RKP is almost always the right call.

If you are still figuring out what kind of board you want, our types of longboards guide breaks down deck shapes and riding styles before you get to the truck decision.

RKP vs TKP Trucks: Which One Fits Your Riding?

This is the first question to answer, and it is simpler than most articles make it sound.

Feature RKP Trucks TKP Trucks
Best for Cruising, commuting, carving, downhill Street tricks, skate parks, tight flatground
Turning feel Smooth, progressive lean through the arc Quick, snappy response at low speed
Stability at speed Higher — geometry naturally resists wobble Lower — twitchy above 15 mph
Ride height Usually higher Usually lower
Common on Longboards, cruisers, drop-through setups Street skateboards, mini cruisers

What this means for your decision: if you are buying trucks for a longboard — for commuting, campus riding, cruising, or carving — you want RKP trucks. They are purpose-built for the kind of sustained, directional riding that longboards do. The geometry distributes your lean into a predictable turn arc rather than a sudden snap.

TKP trucks are not bad. They are just designed for a different job. If you are putting together a street skateboard for ollies and kickflips, TKP is the standard. On a longboard, they will feel twitchy at speed and less comfortable over distance.

One nuance: some very short cruiser boards (under 30 inches) use TKP trucks for portability and a lower ride height. That can work. But once your board passes 32 inches and your riding includes any real distance or speed, RKP trucks are the safer starting point. Our beginner longboard guide goes deeper on how board length connects to truck choice for first-time riders.

Bushing Setup: The Key to Customizing Your Turn

Here is something most first-time buyers miss: the bushings that come with your trucks matter as much as the trucks themselves. Two identical RKP truck models can feel completely different depending on what bushings are installed. This is the part where the “best trucks for longboard” question becomes personal — because bushing preference depends on your weight, your riding style, and how much lean you want.

Bushing Durometer (Hardness)

Bushing hardness is measured on the same A-scale as wheel durometer. The practical translation:

  • 80A–85A (soft): Easy to compress, quick turns, less effort to carve. Good for lighter riders (under 150 lbs) or anyone who wants a surfy, responsive feel at cruising speed.
  • 87A–90A (medium): The default range for most complete longboards. Enough resistance for stability without killing turn response. Works for riders in the 150–200 lb range on flat commutes and casual cruising.
  • 92A–97A (hard): Resists lean, adds stability, reduces wobble at speed. Better for heavier riders (200+ lbs) or anyone doing downhill or fast freeride.

The most common mistake I see in buyer conversations: someone at 130 lbs rides a board with stock 90A bushings and says the trucks feel “dead.” They are not bad trucks — the bushings are too heavy for the rider’s weight. Swap to 85A cones and the same trucks wake up.

Bushing Shape

  • Barrel + Barrel: Maximum stability. Both bushings sit firmly in the truck seat and resist excess lean. Standard for commuting, downhill, and heavier riders.
  • Barrel + Cone: A balance of stability and turn. The roadside cone allows more lean at the top of the turn while the boardside barrel holds the base. This is the most common stock setup on mid-range longboards.
  • Cone + Cone: Maximum turn, minimum resistance. Feels loose and surfy, great for slow-speed carving on flat pavement. Not recommended for speeds above 15 mph or for new riders who are still developing balance.

If you have never changed bushings before, start with what your board came with. Ride it for a few weeks. Then ask yourself: do I want this to turn more easily, or do I want more stability? That answer tells you whether to go softer or harder, cone or barrel. Our longboard category includes boards with different stock bushing setups so you can see the range.

Matching Trucks to Your Riding Style

This is where the buying decision actually lives. Not in brand names or color options — in the match between your route, your speed, and what you want the board to feel like under your feet.

Campus Commuting (0.5–2 miles, flat, mixed pavement)

Best setup: 50-degree RKP trucks with barrel/cone bushings in 85A–87A. This gives you enough turn to navigate crowded sidewalks and enough stability to push comfortably on cracked pavement. You are not going fast enough to need low-angle trucks, and the cone bushing lets you make quick adjustments around obstacles.

City Cruising (1–5 miles, varied terrain, moderate speed)

Best setup: 50-degree RKP trucks with barrel/barrel bushings in 87A–90A. The dual barrels add stability for longer rides where you might hit 12–15 mph on a gentle slope. If your city has rough asphalt, this setup paired with soft wheels (78A–80A) keeps the ride comfortable without sacrificing control.

Carving and Flow Riding (flat or gentle hills, style-focused)

Best setup: 50-degree RKP trucks with cone/cone bushings in 83A–87A. You want maximum lean and the deepest possible turn arc. This is the closest a longboard gets to a surf feel on pavement. The tradeoff: you sacrifice stability at speed. Keep it on mellow terrain.

Downhill and Fast Freeride (steep hills, 20+ mph)

Best setup: 40–44-degree RKP trucks with barrel/barrel bushings in 90A–95A. Lower angle means the trucks turn less per degree of lean, which translates to predictability at speed. Hard bushings resist sudden weight shifts. This is not beginner territory — if you are reading this as your first board, start with the commuting or cruising setup and graduate here when your skills catch up.

In our buyer conversations, the wrong truck setup is usually not about buying a bad product. It is about buying a setup designed for a riding style the rider does not actually do yet. A beginner who buys 40-degree trucks with hard bushings because a review said they are “stable” will find the board hard to turn and frustrating to learn on. For most new riders, a 50-degree truck with medium bushings is the right starting point. If you want a full breakdown of board selection beyond just trucks, our best longboards guide covers the complete picture.

Avoid These Common Truck Buying Mistakes

I have talked to enough riders at this point to see the same mistakes repeat. Here are the ones that matter most:

  1. Ignoring truck angle entirely. Most complete longboards ship with 50-degree trucks, which is fine for most riders. But if you buy a separate truck set without checking the angle, you might end up with something that does not match your speed or terrain. Always check the baseplate degree before you buy.
  2. Skipping bushing swaps. Stock bushings are designed for a “middle” rider — roughly 150–180 lbs, casual cruising. If you are lighter, heavier, or want a specific turn feel, the cheapest upgrade you can make is a $10–$15 set of aftermarket bushings. The difference in ride quality is immediate.
  3. Buying based on brand name alone. This one comes up constantly. Someone asks me, “Is Brand X good?” — and the honest answer is that it depends on the specific model. Some well-known brands have excellent flagship trucks and mediocre budget lines. Some less-known brands punch above their price. Look at the angle, the bushing setup, and whether the truck matches your deck’s mounting pattern before you look at the logo.
  4. Forgetting about compatibility. Trucks need to match your deck’s truck mounting pattern (top-mount or drop-through), your deck width (trucks should be roughly the same width as the deck or slightly narrower), and your wheel size (larger wheels may need riser pads to avoid wheelbite). Buying trucks without checking these three things is how you end up with a board that does not fit together.

If this is your first time buying or upgrading trucks, you do not need the most expensive option. You need the right angle and the right bushings for your weight and riding style. Everything else is refinement.

Frequently Asked Questions About Longboard Trucks

What is the difference between RKP and TKP trucks on a longboard?

RKP (Reverse Kingpin) trucks are designed for longboards. The kingpin faces outward, which creates a smoother, more progressive turn that feels natural at cruising and commuting speeds. TKP (Traditional Kingpin) trucks are built for street skateboards — they turn quickly and sit lower, but they get twitchy and unstable above about 15 mph. For any longboard use — commuting, cruising, carving, or downhill — RKP trucks are the standard choice.

How do I choose the right bushing hardness for my longboard trucks?

Start with your weight. Riders under 150 lbs usually feel best on 80A–87A bushings. Riders between 150–200 lbs typically prefer 87A–92A. Over 200 lbs, look at 90A–97A. Then adjust based on your style: go softer if you want easier carving, harder if you want more stability at speed. Bushings are cheap — $10 to $15 for a set — so do not be afraid to experiment.

Can I upgrade trucks on my complete longboard?

Yes. Most complete longboards allow truck upgrades as long as you match the mounting pattern (top-mount vs drop-through), deck width, and wheel clearance. Upgrading trucks is one of the most noticeable changes you can make to how a board rides. If your current setup feels too loose or too stiff and bushing swaps have not fixed it, trucks are the next step. Check our longboard trucks category for options across different angles and geometries.

Do I need different trucks for drop-through vs top-mount decks?

The trucks themselves are usually the same, but how they mount changes the ride feel. Drop-through mounting lowers the deck, which lowers your center of gravity and adds stability. Top-mount gives you more leverage over the trucks, which means sharper turns but a higher ride height. Make sure the trucks you buy are compatible with your deck’s mounting style — most RKP longboard trucks work with both, but always verify.

How often should I replace my bushings?

There is no fixed schedule. Replace bushings when they show visible cracks, when they no longer rebound to their original shape after leaning, or when the ride feels noticeably different than when they were new. In our experience, most riders who ride 3–4 times a week get 6–12 months out of a set of quality bushings. If your board has been sitting for a year, the bushings may have hardened or flattened from compression — swap them before your first ride back.

Ready to Dial in Your Ride?

Good longboard trucks are the difference between a board that feels alive and one that feels like a chore. Start with the angle and bushings that match your weight and your route. If you want help narrowing it down, our truck selection covers setups for commuting, cruising, carving, and everything between.

Browse longboard trucks →


About this article

Written by Jordan Ellis, Founder of Groveride / buylongboard.com, former urban planning consultant.

Content basis: direct product evaluation, buyer conversations from hundreds of board-selection exchanges, and cross-referenced technical specifications from truck manufacturers. Where conclusions are observational rather than verified, this is noted in the text.