Bearings Comparison
Ceramic Longboard Bearings: What the Specs Actually Mean for Your Ride
Ceramic longboard bearings use silicon nitride balls instead of steel. They cost more, resist corrosion better, and generate slightly less friction. For most riders, none of that translates to a noticeable speed change on the pavement. The real question is not whether ceramic bearings are better — it is whether the difference matters for how, where, and how far you ride. This article breaks down ABEC ratings, ceramic versus steel, and cleaning frequency so you can decide with actual context instead of marketing language.
What ceramic longboard bearings actually are (and are not)
A bearing sits inside each wheel and lets it spin freely around the axle. Standard longboard skateboard bearings use steel balls inside steel races (the inner and outer rings). Ceramic bearings replace those steel balls with silicon nitride (Si3N4) — a material that is harder, lighter, and smoother at a microscopic level than steel. The races are almost always still steel.
What this means for you: ceramic bearings do not spin in a fundamentally different way. They reduce friction at a very small scale. At the speeds most longboard riders reach — 8 to 15 mph on flat ground — that friction reduction is difficult to feel. Manufacturers sometimes market ceramic as a speed upgrade, but in practical riding terms, the difference is closer to a rounding error than a leap.
The real advantages of ceramic show up in two specific areas: corrosion resistance (ceramic balls do not rust) and long-roll consistency over miles of continuous riding. If you commute five or more miles daily, you may notice a small steadiness difference over time. If you ride half a mile to class and stop at every crosswalk, you will not.
For a deeper look at how bearings work, how they are built, and what to check before buying, see our full bearings guide. If you are ready to compare specific sets, the bearings category has options across price ranges.
ABEC ratings: the number most riders misread
ABEC stands for Annular Bearing Engineers’ Committee. The rating — 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 — measures manufacturing tolerance: how precisely the bearing dimensions match the design spec. A higher number means tighter tolerances, which means the parts are machined more accurately.
Here is the part most people miss: ABEC was designed for industrial machinery spinning at 20,000+ RPM. A longboard wheel at cruising speed rarely exceeds 1,500 RPM. At that speed, the tolerance difference between an ABEC-3 and an ABEC-7 bearing is functionally invisible. You are not losing performance by choosing ABEC-5.
| ABEC Rating | What It Measures | What It Does Not Measure | Matters for Longboarding? |
|---|---|---|---|
| ABEC-1 | Loosest manufacturing tolerance | Speed, durability, ride feel | Acceptable for casual riding |
| ABEC-3 | Basic precision | Lubricant quality, sealing, corrosion resistance | Fine for most riders |
| ABEC-5 | Mid-range precision | Real-world speed difference at riding RPM | Sweet spot for longboards |
| ABEC-7 | Higher precision | Whether your wheels, trucks, or pavement allow you to feel it | Diminishing returns for most setups |
| ABEC-9 | Very tight tolerance | Built for machinery, not skateboards | Rarely necessary for longboard use |
Many quality longboard bearings do not carry an ABEC rating at all — brands like Bones use their own rating systems. That is normal, not a red flag. What affects your ride more than the ABEC number: lubricant type, seal design, and whether the bearing fits your wheel seat properly. ABEC ratings explained in detail cover the measurement context if you want the full technical picture.
Ceramic vs steel bearings: a rider-scenario comparison
Instead of listing specs, here is how ceramic and steel compare in the riding situations that actually matter to you.
| Riding Scenario | Steel Bearings | Ceramic Bearings | Better Spend |
|---|---|---|---|
| Campus commute (0.5–2 mi, frequent stops) | More than enough | No noticeable advantage | Steel — save $30–$60 |
| Long-distance commute (5+ mi daily) | Works well with regular cleaning | Small consistency edge over long rolls | Either — ceramic is a legitimate upgrade here |
| Wet or dirty riding environments | Steel balls corrode if not dried and cleaned after wet rides | Ceramic balls resist rust; steel races still can corrode | Ceramic has a real durability advantage |
| First board, budget is tight | Solid choice at $15–$25 per set | $40–$80 per set | Steel — put the difference toward softer wheels |
| Riders who rarely clean bearings | Degrades faster without maintenance | Tolerates neglect slightly longer | Neither — both need cleaning |
One number that surprises people: ceramic balls are lighter than steel, but the total weight savings across a full set of 16 balls is roughly 10–15 grams. That is less than the weight difference between two grip tape brands. It does not change how your board rides.
The scenario that matters most in our buyer conversations: someone with a $150 budget choosing between ceramic bearings and better wheels. Choose the wheels. Softer, larger wheels (78A–82A, 70mm+) absorb pavement texture and make every ride more comfortable. Ceramic bearings are an incremental upgrade. Wheels are a foundational one. If you are not sure what type of board or setup matches your riding, types of longboards and riding styles walks through the options by scenario.
Cleaning frequency: what ceramic and steel bearings actually need
The single biggest performance killer for any bearing — ceramic or steel — is neglect. Most longboarders never clean their bearings. A dirty steel bearing that has not been cleaned in six months will roll slower, feel rougher, and wear out faster than a clean ceramic bearing that has been maintained once. The reverse is also true: a clean $15 steel bearing outperforms a dirty $60 ceramic one.
Here is a cleaning truth I learned early on that applies to every bearing: WD-40 is not bearing oil. It is a solvent and water displacer. Spraying WD-40 on your bearings will flush out existing lubricant and leave them drier than before. Use a dedicated bearing lubricant or a light machine oil — a few drops per bearing after cleaning.
For both ceramic and steel, the maintenance process is the same:
- Remove the bearings from the wheels using a bearing puller or the axle method.
- Pop off the rubber shields with a pin or thin tool.
- Soak in a citrus-based solvent or isopropyl alcohol — shake gently, let sit for 10 minutes.
- Dry completely. Any remaining moisture causes corrosion, especially in steel bearings.
- Apply 2–3 drops of bearing-specific lubricant. Do not over-lubricate — excess oil collects dirt faster.
- Replace shields, reinstall, spin to distribute.
How often? Steel bearings: every 2–3 months of regular riding, or sooner if you hear grinding or the wheels stop spinning freely when you flick them by hand. Ceramic bearings can go slightly longer between cleanings because the ceramic balls themselves will not rust — but the steel races still can, and dirt accumulation is not material-dependent.
For the full cleaning walkthrough with tool recommendations, see how to clean longboard bearings. The broader longboard maintenance guide covers the rest of the board too.
When ceramic longboard bearings are worth buying (and when they are not)
Worth it
- You commute 5+ miles daily and want the most consistent roll over distance.
- You ride in wet or coastal climates where corrosion is a recurring problem.
- Your deck, trucks, and wheels are already dialed in and you want the next incremental upgrade.
- You ride year-round in Portland (or similar) and are tired of cleaning rust off steel balls every few weeks.
Not worth it — yet
- You are buying your first board. Put the money toward wheels and a stable deck instead.
- You ride less than 3 miles at a time with frequent stops.
- You are chasing speed but still on stock trucks and hard wheels — the bottleneck is not your bearings.
- Your budget forces a choice between ceramic bearings and better wheels. Pick wheels every time.
Honestly, if you are reading this article because you are not sure whether you need ceramic bearings, you probably do not need them yet. That is not a criticism — it means your current setup likely has room for bigger improvements elsewhere. Bearings are the last thing to upgrade, not the first.
Common questions, answered straight
Are ceramic bearings faster than steel bearings on a longboard?
Ceramic bearings have lower friction at a micro level, but at normal longboard riding speeds the speed difference is negligible for most riders. Long-distance commuters covering five or more miles daily may notice a small consistency advantage over time. Casual and campus riders will not feel it.
What ABEC rating should I get for longboard bearings?
ABEC 5 or above is fine for longboarding. ABEC ratings measure manufacturing precision, not ride quality, speed, or durability. They were designed for industrial machinery spinning at 20,000+ RPM — longboard wheels rarely exceed 1,500 RPM. Many quality longboard bearings do not carry ABEC ratings at all. Lubricant type and seal quality matter more than the ABEC number.
Do ceramic bearings need less cleaning?
Slightly, because ceramic balls do not rust. But the steel races still corrode and dirt still accumulates regardless of ball material. The cleaning schedule is similar — every 2–3 months of regular riding. A clean steel bearing will outperform a dirty ceramic one every time.
Are ceramic longboard bearings worth the extra cost for beginners?
Usually not. For a first board, the $30–$60 you would spend on ceramic bearings is better used toward softer wheels or a more stable deck. Ceramic bearings are an incremental upgrade that matters more once your wheels, trucks, and deck are already matched to your riding style.
Ready to choose your bearings?
Whether ceramic makes sense for your ride or you want to start with quality steel bearings and upgrade later, the right set depends on distance, climate, and how often you plan to clean them. Browse longboard bearings to find the right match for your setup.