Why storing your longboard properly matters more than you think

Most riders lean their board against a wall and do not think about it again. That works for a week. Over a few months, a few things start to happen — especially if your board has any flex in the deck.

• Deck warping: A flexible longboard left resting at an angle against a wall can develop a slight twist over time. It is not dramatic, but it changes how the board tracks when you ride. Stiffer maple decks resist this better, but nothing is immune to months of uneven pressure.
• Grip tape wear: If the grip-tape side faces the wall, friction and dust buildup roughen the surface unevenly. I bought a used board on Craigslist once where the grip tape was destroyed on one half — the side that had been pressed against a textured wall for months. The rider had no idea why one foot kept slipping.
• Flat spots on wheels: Wheels sitting under constant weight on hard surfaces develop flat spots. You will feel it as a rhythmic thump every revolution. Not dangerous, but annoying enough that you stop wanting to ride.

Proper storage is not about keeping your board pretty. It is about keeping it ride-ready. A board that sits poorly becomes a weekend repair job. A board that hangs or rests correctly is one you actually take with you.

For basics on keeping your board in shape beyond storage, see our longboard maintenance essentials.

Before you buy anything: what your board and space actually need

Measure your board first. A standard longboard runs 38–46 inches long. A cruiser board is usually 28–34 inches. A skateboard is around 31–32 inches. If you buy a wall rack designed for skateboards, it might not have the spacing to hold a 42-inch longboard by the trucks.

A few questions to answer before you start drilling:

• How long is your board? Measure truck-to-truck and tip-to-tip. A 44-inch pintail needs more wall space than a 32-inch cruiser. If you are not sure what shape you have, our types of longboards guide breaks down the common deck profiles.
• How heavy is it? A complete longboard with maple deck, reverse-kingpin trucks, and 70mm wheels can weigh 7–9 lbs. That is heavier than most people expect for a “toy.” Your wall mount needs to handle that weight plus the force of pulling the board off the rack one-handed.
• Horizontal or vertical? Horizontal display (board flat against the wall, like art) looks cleaner but needs 3–5 feet of clear wall width. Vertical storage (board hanging nose-up or nose-down) works in tighter spaces — hallways, behind doors, narrow bedroom walls.
• Renting or owning? If you cannot drill, adhesive mounts exist, but most of them are rated for skateboard weight, not longboard weight. Be honest about whether the adhesive will hold 8 lbs of board plus the torque of pulling it off the wall daily.

Three longboard wall storage options that actually work

These are the three approaches I have seen work for riders in apartments, dorms, and houses. None of them require specialty hardware from a skateboard shop — you can get everything at a hardware store.

Option 1: Simple J-hook or U-hook mount (horizontal)

This is the cheapest and most common longboard wall holder. Two padded hooks screwed into the wall, spaced to match your truck positions. The board hangs by the trucks with the deck flat against the wall.

1. Find two wall studs using a stud finder, or use heavy-duty drywall anchors rated for at least 20 lbs each.
2. Space the hooks to match your truck mounting distance — usually 20–28 inches apart for a longboard.
3. Screw the hooks in at the same height using a level. Pad the hook surface with rubber tubing or a strip of old inner tube to protect the truck hangers.
4. Hang the board by the trucks. Check that the deck rests flat and does not swing.

Option 2: Y-shaped wall bracket (grab-and-go)

A Y-shaped or cradle-style bracket holds the board by the nose or tail instead of the trucks. One bracket is usually enough. This works better for daily commuters because you can grab the board off the wall and walk out without lifting it up and over hooks.

1. Mount the bracket at waist-to-chest height so you can grab the board with one hand.
2. Use at least one screw into a stud. For drywall-only, use a toggle bolt rated for the board’s weight.
3. Test with a gentle pull before loading the full board weight.

Option 3: DIY — two L-brackets and a rubber strip

This is my favorite for renters and minimalists. Two small L-brackets (the kind used for shelving) mounted to the wall with a strip of rubber or felt on top to prevent scratching. The board rests across both brackets like a shelf. Total hardware cost is usually under $8.

1. Mount two L-brackets at the same height, spaced about 18–24 inches apart.
2. Glue or tape a thin rubber strip across the top surface of each bracket.
3. Set the board on top, deck-side down or wheels-down depending on your preference.

This one does not look as clean as a dedicated longboard wall rack, but it works for every board size and leaves minimal wall damage.

Common mistakes that damage your board (or your wall)

I have heard every version of “my board fell off the wall” and most of them come down to the same few errors.

• Mounting into drywall only, no stud. Drywall anchors are rated for static weight, not the dynamic force of pulling a board off a hook. If you ride every day, you are testing that anchor dozens of times a month. Hit a stud or use a toggle bolt — not a plastic expansion anchor.
• Hanging heavy drop-through boards by the trucks on thin hooks. Drop-through decks are heavier and the truck mounting creates a different stress point than top-mount boards. Make sure the hook is wide enough to sit flat against the truck hanger, not digging into one edge.
• Pressing grip tape against a textured wall. This wears the tape unevenly and picks up wall paint and dust. Hang the board with the grip tape facing out, or place a thin felt pad between the board and the wall.
• Ignoring the wheels. Wheels hanging free for months collect dust in the bearing area. If you store a board long-term, spin the wheels every few weeks or give the bearings a quick clean before your next ride. Our longboard setups include wheels and bearings ready to ride — but they still need occasional attention after storage.

When you do not need a longboard holder at all

Honestly, not every rider needs wall storage. If you ride daily and your board lives by the front door, a simple floor lean against a rubber mat works fine for short-term — the key word being short-term. A few days on the floor is not the same as a few months.

• Daily commuters: A vertical lean next to your bag is fine if you ride every day. The board is not sitting long enough to warp.
• Campus riders in small dorms: Shorter cruiser boards fit under a bed or in a closet without any hardware. A board bag or sleeve adds protection if the board will be stacked under other things.
• Occasional weekend riders: This is the group that benefits most from a wall rack, because the board sits for days or weeks at a time. Proper storage prevents the slow decay that makes you think your board “got worse” when really it just sat wrong.

The real question is simple: does your storage method make it easier or harder to grab the board and go? If the answer is “harder,” change the method. If you are still deciding which board fits your riding style, browse our complete longboards and cruisers — every board ships fully assembled, so the only setup left is finding a place to put it when you get home.