Buying Guide
Longboard Sale: How to Buy Right, Not Just Buy Cheap
Searching for a longboard sale usually means one thing: you want a board, and you don’t want to overpay. That is a perfectly reasonable starting point. The problem is that the cheapest option and the right option are rarely the same board. A $70 board that sits in your closet after two rides costs more than a $130 board you actually ride every week. If you are looking at longboards for your first board, the budget question matters — but the bigger question is what you give up at each price point. This guide breaks down exactly that.
The real question behind “longboard sale”
I get asked about budget more than almost any other topic. The conversation usually goes like this: “I have $80 to $200 — is the expensive one actually worth it?” My answer is always the same: it depends on where you ride, how far, and what surface you are on. Not on the brand name or the graphic on the deck.
The real risk with searching for longboards on sale is not overspending. It is buying a board that rides badly enough — hard wheels on cracked pavement, bearings that feel like they are grinding, a deck that vibrates your feet numb — that you stop riding entirely. In our buyer conversations, the boards people regret are almost never the ones they spent a little more on. They are the ones that were cheap enough to seem safe but uncomfortable enough to collect dust.
A few years ago, someone asked me to help him pick a board. He had never ridden before, commuted about 1.5 miles to work, and had a budget somewhere between $80 and $200. We talked for about ten minutes — his route, his height, the pavement quality on his commute. He ended up with a $138 board. Three weeks later, he sent me a photo from his ride, no text. That photo told me more than any product review ever could. He bought right, not cheap. And he is still riding.
The rest of this guide walks through what you actually gain and lose at each price tier so you can make that same kind of decision for yourself.
What you actually get at each longboard budget tier
Price tells you something about components, but only if you know what to look for. Here is what each budget range typically delivers in terms of real riding experience — not marketing language.
| Budget tier | Typical components | Rider outcome |
|---|---|---|
| Under $80 | Generic bearings, hard wheels (usually 90A+), thin maple or plywood deck, basic grip tape that peels within weeks | Works for testing whether you like the feeling of standing on a board. Uncomfortable on any pavement that is not perfectly smooth. Not a reliable commuter. |
| $80–$130 | Softer wheels (78A–82A range), maple deck, functional bearings, RKP trucks that turn predictably | The realistic first-board sweet spot. Enough quality to commute comfortably on mixed pavement. Complete setups in this range usually include everything you need to ride out of the box. |
| $130–$180 | Better wheel formulas, more responsive trucks, deck shape options (drop-through, pintail, drop-down), improved grip tape | Noticeable step up in ride feel. Worth it if you already know your riding style — campus commuting, longer distance cruising, or carving. Less important if you are still figuring out what you like. |
| $180+ | Premium wheel urethane, precision or higher-end trucks, specialty deck constructions, dancing or downhill-specific shapes | Real returns for specific styles: dancing, downhill, long-distance push. For casual cruising and short commutes, the difference over a $130 board is usually not enough to justify the cost. |
What this means for you: if you are browsing longboards on sale and the price is under $80, check the wheel durometer. If it is above 85A, expect a rough ride on anything except fresh asphalt. In the $80–$130 range, you start seeing wheels in the 78A–82A softness range, which absorb road texture better and make a noticeable difference over a one-mile commute. That is usually where the money goes, and it is worth it.
One common mistake — and I made this one myself early on — is thinking you need to buy the most expensive board because “you will grow into it.” Honestly, most first-time riders don’t know what style they want yet. Spending $200+ on a board before you have ridden 20 miles is buying a solution to a problem you don’t have yet. Start in the $100–$150 range, learn what you like, then upgrade with purpose. You can read more about matching board types to riding styles in our guide to types of longboards.
When a longboard sale is actually worth it
Not every discounted board is a good deal. Some are discounted because they should be. Here is how to tell the difference.
Green flags — real deals
- A known brand’s complete board marked down 15–30% — last season’s colorway or discontinued graphic. Same board, lower price. This is a genuine longboard sale.
- A board with full specs listed: deck length, width, wheel durometer, truck type, bearing rating. The seller knows what they are selling.
- Complete setups where every component is individually replaceable. If a bearing goes bad in six months, you can swap it without buying a whole new board.
Red flags — cheap for a reason
- No brand name, no deck material listed, no wheel durometer. The listing just says “longboard” with a picture. These boards are usually assembled from the cheapest available components.
- Grip tape that looks thin or poorly cut in the product photo. It will peel within a month of regular use.
- Bearings with no ABEC or brand rating listed. In our experience, mystery bearings rust and seize faster, especially in wet or humid conditions.
- Assemblies where the deck flex looks extreme under normal weight. A deck that bottoms out under a 150-pound rider is not “flexible” — it is undersupported.
I learned about red flags the hard way before starting Groveride. I bought a “nearly new” board off a secondhand listing for $65 — the seller said it had been ridden three times. When it arrived, the grip tape was worn through in spots, the bearings had visible rust, and one of the four wheels was a different hardness than the others. A beginner would not have caught any of that. I returned it, and the experience taught me to always check component details before buying, regardless of the price tag.
The point is not that cheap boards are always bad. My sister Casey needed a campus commuter, and she did not need an expensive board — she needed the right board for riding half a mile to class on smooth pavement. The right board and the most expensive board are different questions. For more help narrowing down what you actually need, our full longboard buying guide walks through the selection process step by step.
What to prioritize when your budget is tight
If you are looking at a longboard sale and your budget is $100–$130, here is where to focus — in order of actual impact on your riding experience.
- Wheel softness first. If you are between two boards at the same price, pick the one with softer wheels (78A–82A). On cracked sidewalks, brick paths, and rough parking lots, wheel durometer is the single biggest factor in whether your board feels good or terrible. This is not a matter of preference — softer wheels absorb vibration, and your feet will thank you after a one-mile ride.
- Buy a complete setup. For beginners, buying parts separately costs more and creates confusion. A complete longboard ships fully assembled with deck, trucks, wheels, bearings, and grip tape matched together. You ride it out of the box. Save the custom builds for after you know what you want to change.
- Don’t upgrade bearings yet. Stock bearings on a $100–$130 board are fine for six months or more of regular commuting. Bearings are the component beginners overthink. They matter, but not as much as wheel softness or deck stability in your first season.
- Ignore the grip tape brand. Grip tape is cheap to replace — usually under $10 and ten minutes of your time. If a board has good wheels, trucks, and deck but basic grip tape, buy it. You can swap the tape later with no tools beyond a screwdriver and a sharp blade.
- Length and stability over graphics. A 38–42 inch deck gives most riders enough foot room and stability for commuting and cruising. Graphics fade, stickers peel, and nobody at the skate park cares what your board looks like. The board underneath matters.
For riders who are still deciding between a longboard and a skateboard, the short version is: longboards are better for distance and stability, while standard skateboards are built for tricks and park riding. If your main goal is getting to class or work, you want the longboard side of that equation. We break down the longboard vs skateboard differences in detail if you want the full comparison.
Common questions, answered straight
Is it safe to buy a longboard on sale under $80?
It can work to test whether you enjoy riding, but under-$80 boards usually have hard wheels (often 90A or harder), thin decks, and bearings that will not hold up to regular use. On rough pavement, you will feel every crack and pebble. For a board you plan to ride more than a few times, $100–$130 is the more realistic minimum. At that range, you start getting components that make riding actually comfortable.
What is the best budget longboard for a beginner?
There is no single “best” board — it depends on your route, weight, and how far you ride. But in general, a complete longboard in the $100–$150 range with 78A–82A wheels and a 38–42 inch deck is the safest starting point for most first-time riders. For a deeper breakdown, our beginner longboard guide walks through exactly what to look for based on your riding situation.
Are longboard sales worth it or just old stock?
Sometimes both, and that is fine. Discontinued graphics or last-season colorways are often the same board at a lower price — those are real deals. What you want to avoid is boards with no spec details, no brand name, or no information about the wheels, bearings, or deck material. If the listing does not tell you what the components are, it is usually because the components are not worth listing. Always check for wheel durometer, deck material, and truck type before buying.
Should I buy a longboard or a cruiser skateboard?
Depends on distance and portability. Longboards are better for longer commutes — they are more stable, more comfortable over distance, and easier to learn on. Cruiser skateboards are more compact, easier to carry on a bus or into a coffee shop, and better for short hops across campus. If your ride is over a mile, lean longboard. If you need to toss it in a backpack, lean cruiser.
Ready to find the right board for your budget?
Browse boards organized by riding style and budget — every one ships fully assembled and ready to ride. See all boards and parts at Groveride and find the one that fits how you actually ride.