Truck Bushings Explained
Longboard Truck Bushings: What Durometer and Shape Actually Mean for Your Ride
Longboard truck bushings are the small urethane pieces inside your trucks that control how much your board leans and turns. Swap them out, and you change your turning radius, your stability at speed, and how the board feels under your feet — all without buying new trucks. This guide translates bushing durometer, shape, and truck geometry into the riding experience you actually care about.
What bushings actually do on a longboard
Every time you lean on a longboard, two small cylinders of urethane compress inside each truck. Those cylinders are your bushings. They control how easily the hanger pivots, how far the board leans before it starts turning, and how quickly it snaps back to center when you straighten out.
In practical terms: soft longboard truck bushings let you carve tighter turns with less effort. Harder bushings resist lean, which keeps the board tracking straighter at speed. This is not a subtle difference. It is the difference between a board that feels like it wants to follow your body and a board that wants to hold a line.
I used to do urban planning work where every sidewalk and bike lane had to balance maneuverability against throughput — wide turns move more people but feel less intuitive; tight turns feel responsive but can get unstable at higher speeds. Bushings work the same way. The tradeoff between lean and stability is a geometry problem, and the bushing is the variable you can change for under $15.
You can browse a full range of longboard trucks and bushing setups to see what ships stock and what you might want to swap.
Bushing durometer: what the number means for your turning
Durometer is a hardness rating, measured on the A scale. Lower numbers are softer. Higher numbers are harder. For longboard bushings, the useful range runs from about 78A to 97A.
| Durometer Range | Rider Feel | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 78A–85A | Easy lean, tight turning radius, very responsive | Cruising, carving, lighter riders under 150 lbs |
| 85A–90A | Moderate lean with some resistance | Campus commuting, general riding, most beginners |
| 90A–95A | Firm resistance, stable line tracking | Faster riding, downhill, heavier riders over 200 lbs |
| 95A–97A | Very stiff, minimal lean | High-speed downhill and freeride |
What this means for you: the same bushing durometer feels different depending on your weight. A 140 lb rider on 90A bushings will feel moderate resistance. A 210 lb rider on the same bushing will compress them easily and feel loose. Bushing durometer is not an absolute setting — it is relative to how much force your body puts on the truck.
For most first-time longboard riders, starting in the 85A–90A range works. If you are under 150 lbs, lean toward the softer end. If you are over 200 lbs or plan to ride faster than casual cruising, step up to 90A–95A. Our beginner longboard guide covers how stock bushings on most complete boards already sit in this middle range, so you may not need to change anything right away.
Bushing shape: barrel, cone, and how each affects your ride
Bushings come in two main shapes, and the shape changes how much urethane is in contact with the truck hanger and baseplate.
- Barrel bushings are wider cylinders with more urethane surface area. More surface area means more resistance to lean. Barrels keep the board stable and predictable, especially at speed.
- Cone bushings taper to a smaller point, so there is less contact area. Cones compress more easily, giving you a tighter turning radius and a more responsive carving feel.
Most longboard trucks ship with a barrel on the boardside (the bottom bushing, closer to the deck) and a cone on the roadside (the top bushing, closer to the nut). This combo gives you some stability from the barrel underneath and easier turning from the cone on top.
Double barrel setups resist lean more — better for pushing long distances in a straight line or riding downhill. Double cone setups feel loose and surfy — more fun for cruising and carving, but less stable once you get above moderate speed.
If you are choosing bushings for a commuting setup, the barrel/cone combo is the safe starting point. If you know you want tighter carves on a campus or in a park, cone/cone can work. If you want maximum stability for long-distance pushing or speed, go barrel/barrel. Your choice should follow from the type of longboard you are riding and the terrain you cover most often.
RKP vs TKP trucks: how truck geometry interacts with bushings
Bushing behavior depends on the truck type under your deck. The two main geometries are RKP and TKP.
| RKP (Reverse Kingpin) | TKP (Traditional Kingpin) | |
|---|---|---|
| Standard on | Longboards, most cruisers | Street skateboards, some cruiser boards |
| Lean-to-turn ratio | More lean, deeper carve | Less lean, quicker pivot |
| Bushing impact | High — bushing swap changes ride feel noticeably | Moderate — bushings matter, but geometry does more of the work |
| Best for | Cruising, commuting, carving, downhill | Street tricks, quick turns, park riding |
If you bought a complete longboard, your trucks are almost certainly RKP. That makes bushing swaps one of the easiest and cheapest ways to change how the board turns without replacing the whole truck assembly.
Longboard vs skateboard setups also differ in truck type, which affects bushing compatibility. If you are riding a cruiser skateboard with TKP trucks, you need TKP-compatible bushings — they are a different size and shape than what most longboard RKP trucks use. Always check your truck model before ordering replacements.
When to replace your bushings (and when not to bother)
Here is the part most beginner guides skip: you probably do not need new bushings yet.
Replace your longboard bushings when:
- They are visibly cracked, deformed, or compressed flat.
- The board feels unpredictable or loose even after tightening the kingpin nut.
- They do not return to center smoothly — the board leans one direction and stays there.
Do not replace bushings on a brand-new board just because someone online said the stock ones are bad. Ride the board first. Give yourself a few weeks of actual riding to feel what works and what does not. Most complete boards in the $100–$200 range ship with bushings that are fine for cruising and commuting if you are between 130 and 180 lbs.
A common mistake I see from buyer questions: the board feels too loose, so the rider cranks down the kingpin nut until the bushings are crushed. This does tighten the feel temporarily, but it also damages the bushing material and makes the truck unpredictable. If you need more resistance, a harder bushing durometer is a better fix than over-tightening.
If you are 200+ lbs or planning to ride faster than casual cruising speeds, upgrading to a firmer bushing is one of the cheapest and most noticeable changes you can make — usually under $12 for a full set. Browse cruiser skateboard and longboard options to see what your board ships with before deciding.
Quick bushing selection by riding style
Use this as a starting point, then adjust one step softer or harder based on your weight and preference.
Campus commuting
Durometer: 85A–90A
Shape: barrel/cone combo
Why: Balances push comfort with enough response for sidewalk turns and pedestrian dodging.
Urban cruising and carving
Durometer: 80A–85A
Shape: cone/cone
Why: Loose, responsive turns that feel smooth on bike paths and neighborhood streets.
Long-distance pushing
Durometer: 87A–92A
Shape: barrel/barrel
Why: Straight-line stability and less energy wasted on micro-corrections over long rides.
Downhill or fast freeride
Durometer: 90A–97A
Shape: barrel/barrel
Why: Maximum resistance to wobble and predictable lean at speed.
If you are under 150 lbs, go one step softer than the range listed for your riding style. If you are over 200 lbs, go one step harder. Bushing selection is about your body and your route, not about what looks good on a spec sheet.
Common questions about longboard truck bushings
Do all longboard bushings fit all trucks?
No. Bushings are sized by truck type and brand. Most longboard RKP trucks use standard-size bushings (about 0.6″ tall, 0.9″–1″ wide), but some brands use proprietary sizes. TKP trucks use shorter, differently shaped bushings. Always check your specific truck model before buying replacements.
How do I know what bushing durometer I need?
Match durometer to your weight and riding style. Lighter riders and casual cruisers go softer (78A–85A). Heavier riders and speed-oriented riders go harder (90A–97A). If you are unsure, start in the 85A–90A range — it works for most riders between 130 and 180 lbs on a general-purpose board.
Will replacing bushings fix wobbly trucks?
Sometimes. If your bushings are worn, cracked, or too soft for your weight, a replacement can fix the wobble. But instability can also come from a loose kingpin nut, worn pivot cups, or rider technique — especially at speeds you have not ridden before. Check all three before assuming the bushings are the problem.
Are cone or barrel bushings better for beginners?
A barrel boardside and cone roadside combo is the most beginner-friendly setup. It gives you stability underneath and enough turning ability to feel responsive. This is the combination most stock longboard setups ship with, and for good reason — it works across a wide range of casual riding.
Ready to dial in your ride feel?
If your board feels too stiff or too loose at speed, swapping bushings is the cheapest upgrade you can make. Browse truck and bushing options to find the setup that matches your weight and riding style.